Friday, August 15, 2014

Affinity for Entomology


One thing is always true in fashion; change is constant. So it makes sense for the beginnings of evolution to play a key role in inspiring works of art. Designers have been using insects as a point of reference in some of the highest of fashions around the world.
These primordial creatures ascended in popularity with the birth of jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez. Since 2007, the daughter of Sylvia Fendi has been bringing stones and precious metals to life in the form of bees, flies, grasshoppers, and spiders. Inspired by her phobia of insects as well as the novel The Wasp Factory, Delfina makes fine jewelry that is unique and easily recognizable to her own aesthetic.
Source: http://fashionista514.com/

Source: style.com

Source: svpply.com/
The house of Alexander Mcqueen’s Sarah Burton also has an affinity for entomology. For her Spring/Summer 2013 collection, Burton troped on the idea of honey combs and bees to create curvaceous silhouettes and playful accessories. While Mcqueen himself was strongly interested in ornithology, Burton was interested in melittology. Wanting to focus most on the strong female, Burton saw bees as a way to express this.
Source: http://www.style.com/
Source: http://www.style.com/
Source: http://www.style.com/
Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier borrowed scarab beetles for his Fall 2010 show. The designer mimicked the colors from real beetles to give an armor-like bolero an iridescent and eerie touch. Like Burton, Maier envisioned a powerful woman when designing his collection. Used in jewelry since Ancient Egypt, scarabs have been popular amulets as a symbol or rebirth and self-creation.
Source: http://www.style.com/
Source: http://www.style.com/
Source: http://www.style.com/
As her logo, Charlotte Dellal of Charlotte Olympia uses a spider web beneath every shoe and on every purse. Inspired by the book Charlotte’s Web, Dellal began collecting spider related gifts and naturally made her insignia a web. Aiming for conversational shoes as well as feminine classics, Dellal is famously known for her clever borrow.
Source: http://ftape.com/

Source: http://www.taiganfinds.com/
Source: http://modaoperandi.com/

Monday, June 23, 2014

Memoirs of a Designer

Japanese designers have helped paved the way for innovative fashion. They have been responsible for many trends, techniques, and styles throughout history. These radical designers of past and present have increased the relevance of Japanese fashion week and Japanese style.
Vogue Japan October 2012
Source: http://rockthetrend.com/
Yohji Yamamoto Surface Magazine May 2012
Source: http://www.thinkcontra.com/
Some of the most noteworthy designers have originated in Japan. Some of them revolutionized textile processes while others recreated the consummate construction of clothing. Some of these designers of change include Tsumori Chisato, Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, Kenzo Takada, Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, and Junko Shimada.
It is rare to speak of fashion without mentioning the Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo. Born in Tokyo in 1942, Kawakubo began working with textiles at Asahi Kasei Textile Co. which was famous for its production of synthetic fibers such as spandex, acrylic, and polyester. Kawakubo also worked freelance, specifically in costuming, before later founding the internationally renowned fashion label Comme des Garçons, meaning like the boys. The French name may have derived from the traditionally French androgynous and laissez faire way of dressing. Kawakubo’s first Comme des Garçons boutique was opened in Tokyo in 1975. Kawakubo was a modernist, expressing her taste for art and literature through contemporary practices. She created conceptual fashions that were unconcerned with expectations. Some of her most recognized signatures are minimalism, asymmetry, and unexpectedness. Rei Kawakubo became famous for the Comme des Garçons house and her innovation and unique aesthetic.
Rei kawakubo guerrilla boutique model suffers bestow favor on 0
Rei Kawakubo
Source: http://www.bandandblog.com/
Comme des Garçons
Source: http://blogs.colum.edu/
Another prominent and influential Japanese designer is Issey Miyake. Miyake is most famous for his creative and innovative textiles and techniques. Miyake was born in Hiroshima in 1938 and studied at the Tama Art University of Tokyo from 1959 to 1963 as well as the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in 1965. He worked as a design assistant for another famous designer by the name of Guy Laroche who worked specifically with millinery. Miyake also worked for the famous fashion house Givenchy as well as the designer Geoffrey Beene. Miyake opened his first studio in Tokyo in 1970. His work has been featured in exhibitions in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Tokyo Museum of Contemporary Art, the International Design Conference in Colorado, and many more. He has received honors and awards such as an honorary doctorate by the Royal College of Art in London, a Tokyo Creation award, and many others. Some of Miyake’s more celebrated work includes innovative pleating techniques and the utilization of metals as fibers in textiles. His textiles are known to be more withstanding than others, as well as allow for more movement.
Issey Miyake
Source: http://isseymiyake.zxq.net/
Issey Miyake Exhibition in Seattle Art Museum
Source: http://www.elle.com/
Some other Japanese designers have created namesake houses that are known for being contemporary and extremely relevant in fashion such as Tsumori Chisato and Kenzo Takada. Chisato attended Toyko’s Bunka Fashion College and worked with Issey Miyake in 1977 before beginning her own line in 1990. Some of her signatures include her easily recognizable playful prints. Kenzo, who is also known for his generous use of patterns, made his name by mixing unexpected prints together from pieces he found at flea markets. This technique became synonymous with his name. Some of his awards include the Fashion Editor Club of Japan prize.
Tsumori Chisato
Source: http://www.mystylematterz.com/
Tsumori Chisato SS10
Source: http://museforfashion.files.wordpress.com/
Kenzo Takada
Source: http://hyypezup.com/
Kenzo AW06
Source: http://www.style.com/
Junko Shimada is another famous Japanese designer. Shimada attended the Jujino Gajen Dressmaker Institute of Tokyo, but soon after moved to Paris, the fashion capital. Her work experience included the Mafia Design Studio as well as head childrenswear designer of Cacharel. Shimada began designing under her own name in 1981 and was named by press as the most Parisian of Japanese. While most of her famous work was done in the 80’s, especially with her suits, Shimada continues to design today, having her work celebrated on runways and in showrooms.
Junko Shimada
Source: http://www.globalblue.com/
Junko Shimada SS10
Source: http://debonairpanda.blogspot.com/
Junya Watanabe was the protégé of Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo. Watanabe was born in Fukushima, Japan in 1961. Like Tsumori Chisato, Junya Watanabe also attended Bunka Fashion College in Toyo, although Watanabe graduated from there in 1984. Watanabe’s specialty was printmaking, much like other Japanese designers we have discussed.  Watanabe worked for the Comme des Garçons house under his own name, and now has his own namesake label. His most famous work includes using an eclectic mix of textiles such as organic, synthetic, and his own innovative materials.
Junya Watanabe
Source: http://www.brownsfashion.com/
Junya Watanabe AW14
Source: http://www.style.com/
Japanese fashion has strongly influential, especially concerning the focus on textiles, techniques, and styles. Famous Japanese designers throughout history have helped create a foothold for influence in fashion around the world.

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Medusa as a Metaphor

It is not just Versace who has historically revered both the symbol and the myth of Medusa. Designers and artists of all kinds have been inspired by everything that made Medusa sedentary in our minds. Whether it is the cool stare or the unattainable beauty, Medusa has never been more prevalent in fashion than in the present.
Vogue-Japan-Feb2012
Vogue Japan February 2012, All Versace and Versace for H&M
Source: http://omegacollektiv.com/

Kate Moss in Versace SS13 Ad Campaign.
Source: http://www.glamourboysinc.com/
A woman who was once so beautiful, so desired, that even the Gods were green with envy, was transformed into a mystical creature that with not but a glance could turn a man to stone. The concept of creating fashion that is so stunning on a woman’s body that one must stare in awe; this was the origin of Versace’s namesake emblem. Many designers have tried to conceive their idea of impossible beauty and perfection such as with Medusa. Whether they worked from the folds of the clothing and the drape on a form like the gowns of the Greeks, or with the textures of exotic creatures like scales on a snake, designers have been continuously inspired by Medusa.
Sophia Vergara in Hervé Léger
Source: http://fashionrollcall.com/

Show | Capriole Haute Couture
Ajak Deng in Coiled Iris Van Herpen AW11
Source: http://www.irisvanherpen.com/
Emilio Pucci Serpent Wedges SS13
Source: http://style.com/
Medusa’s elusive power of dominance and desire has captured the hearts and creative minds of designers such as Elyssa Bass, Lanvin, Alexander McQueen, and numerous others. Designers endow their designs with the power of Medusa’s control with both fitted shapes and sharp cuts. From work wear to fetish attire, dominance and power play a large role in fashion. The desire is recreated time and time again with sumptuous fabrics and flattering colors. Flesh, jewel, and earth tones have become the most popular derivative of Medusa’s influence. One must only see an emerald Hervé Léger dress or a nude Atsuko Kudo pencil skirt to know that Medusa’s magnetic power is still at work in fashion.

Lanvin Snake Necklace SS10
Source: http://www.style.com/
Rinko Kuikuchi in Fausto Puglisi
Source: http://thefashion-court.com/

The snake, or serpent, is a symbol of guardianship and rebirth. As Medusa used her snakes as a form of protection, power, and preservation, fashion uses snakes as a way to bring to life Medusa’s youthful ardor into their fashions. Signifying the raw strength and power of Medusa, these designers use snakes as a part of their creative process.
Roberto Cavalli
Source: http://www.luisaviaroma.com/

Lindsey Wixson in snake-like dreadlocks for Chanel PF2012
Source: http://www.style.com/
Snake Dress, Balmain Fall 2009
Source: ww.style.com

The Icon, Medusa, has been revered throughout history as a stunning, youthful, and strong archetype for fashion. Praised for her beauty, respected for her power, and transfixed in the creative minds of designers around the world, Medusa will continue to be epitomized as a powerful metaphor in fashion. 
Riahanna as Medusa, British GQ Cover December 2013
Source: http://live.drjays.com/