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| Gareth Pugh AW11 |
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| Haider Ackermann SS12 |
Color
Haider Ackermann sees fashion in living
color. He was born in Colombia, trained in Belgium, and is a current citizen of
France. Colombia- where the colors are bright and exotic, is reflected in
Haider’s color palettes of lapis, turquoise, and amethyst. Belgium’s taste for
neutrals has influenced his appreciation for beige, sand, and cider. And because
the French are known for having a color sense that considers navy blue and
black complimentary, it is understandable that Haider Ackermann would be the
one designer to combine such colors as emerald green and burnt orange or baby
blue and burlap.
Gareth Pugh sees fashion in black
and white and occasionally shades of gray. Where many a designer may tire of
the routine colors or the absence of them, Gareth uses it to inspire him in all
other faculties of design. His color choice never hinders his ability to
develop new ideas based on his same modus operandi.
Process
Haider takes his inspiration from
the streets. Literal translations of trend and style come only after Haider has
had his pick of color and fabric, but unlike most artists, Haider focuses almost
solely on the latter. Silhouette and construction take form in Haider’s sinuous
draping and layering. Design ease plays a large part in Haider’s creations, the
fit and lay of the fabric on the body of primary importance. Haider seeks to
compliment the architecture of the body with his clothes.
Gareth’s inspiration is derived
from sources ranging from cockfighting and flamenco to Aztec warriors and the ever-present Japanese influence. Light, birds, and
spaceships will always be secondary to his more dominant source of inspiration:
the Amazonian woman. The male feminist transforms models into indestructible matriarchs
as they take the catwalk, featuring dramatic make-up and face-obscuring
headdresses. Gareth’s clothes embody his ideal woman with long, articulate, purposeful
cuts.
Fusion
Their palettes, textiles, and techniques
may differ, but the synchronized souls of both Haider Ackermann and Gareth Pugh
keep them on the same artistic platform. The unexpected romanticism in these
two designers, and their emphasis on designing for a strong woman, has helped
them converge in their Fall 2013 shows. Gareth has begun to explore softer
volumes and add more warmth to his collections. Meanwhile, Haider has
stripped his clothes of some of their color and explored more of the tailoring,
of which he is so capable. Both designers continue to observe the boundaries and then push them.
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| Gareth Pugh AW13 |
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| Haider Ackermann AW13 All Photo Credits: http://www.style.com/ |
